Salvador the Best!

Salvador da Bahia, Brazil Central
The Deep Guide to Brazil's Essentiality

Sprawled across broad equatorial latitudes, stoked and steamed and sensual in the widest sense of the word... limned in cadenced song... its very name born in heat and embers, Brazil is a conundrum wrapped in a smile inside an irony.

 
CONTENTS
Neighborhoods and Streets and
Backstreets and Byways

There are two neighborhoods in Salvador that just about every visitor gets to know. One is Pelourinho (Pillory), which has its own "chapter" in the "Table of Contents", and the other is Barra (Bar, as in reef, and pronounced "BA-ha"), which has a number of hotels and the two beaches closest to the city center (with the exception of some very small beaches frequented only by very local people).

There is, of course, a lot more to Salvador than this, including:

Ladeira de Conceição -- A ladeira is a sloping street, and the Ladeira de Conceição slopes down from the Praça Castro Alves (named for poet Antônio Frederico de Castro Alves) to the Igreja da Conceição in the lower city. The street is lined with workshops, metalworking and stonecutting, set into arches under the Ladeira da Montanha, which runs above, and brothels.


View from the entrance to Salvador's best-known brothel, Marinalva's (Is there a bordello anywhere in the world that can beat this?)


Creative housing then, workshops now.

Twenty-three of these arches were built, completed in 1879, in order to support the Rua da Montanha, now called the Ladeira da Montanha, a more gently inclined communication between the upper and lower cities. The Ladeira da Montanha became well-known for the meretricious establishments which grew up along its 894 meters.

Rua Manoel Vitorino, just off of the Ladeira da Conceição. Unfortunately much of this historic area has been abandoned by the (venally incompetent) city (government).


The Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia, from which the ladeira derives its name.

Solar do Unhão -- A solar is a manor house, and there certainly aren't any of those in the vizinhança (neighborhood) of Solar do Unhão, the area being named for the Solar do Unhão proper, itself named for one of the early (1692 and thereabouts) owners (Pedro de Unhão Castelo Branco, who held the post of provedor-mor dos defuntos, responsible for looking after the finances of the dead with the idea that the Portuguese Crown would be sure to get what was "theirs"). In the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the house served as the locale for a series of factories (including the manufacture of snuff) and then warehousing (reasons for which the original interiors are completely gone), and in the sixties the buildings were refurbished by the Bahian state government. Nowadays the Solar houses Salvador's Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM), and the grounds are the location of Saturday nights' Jam no Mam, a big jazz jam session which brings in hundreds of people (from 6 to 9 p.m.).


The vizinhança of Solar do Unhão


The Solar do Unhão proper

The igreja of Nossa Senhora da Conceição (another one) on the grounds of the Solar do Unhão, raised in 1757. The oratório to the left is dedicated to Santa Luzia.

YOU Are Connected to the Two Guys Below!

We are all very well-connected, ultimately. Via the small world/six degrees phenomenon, you and Mick Jagger and Itzhak Perlman and me and every musician and producer we've ever heard of and millions we haven't...all of us are within a reasonably short series of hops from each other.

 
Road to Salvador
Pathway to Music!

And so our proposal is a music network based in and building upon this phenomenon, realized as an online codex (codex = "book" in Latin) with links that can be followed...

...these links leading to more links, together forming pathways leading to Appalachia and Donegal and Berlin and Brazil...to people unknown except to a few and to people known to millions but unknown to many more.

The MusiCodex is a way of providing pipelines to all, with each member acting as a relay-torchbearer for music, receiving people from the "From" column and sending them on via the "To" column. From this simple process unfolds a vast labyrinth wherein we are led step-by-step by those whom we choose to follow...

As the yellow brick road began in Munchkin Land, our labyrinth begins in Brazil, in Bahia, in a record shop devoted to music usually danced to barefoot, on beaten clay, under palm and banana leaves...

Salvador Artists
Enter our MusiCodex here

That's João do Boi (John of the Ox) to the right of the ubiquitous Jay-Z there...

Itapoan -- mentioned in the "Beaches" section. An interesting seaside village (with several alternative spellings). You can get great acarajés from Cira (the Baiana's name), across from a praça that's very lively at night. The Baiana next to Cira is not as famous, but her acarajés are great too. Itapoan runs the gamut from poor to rich, has a good beach, great barracas, and a great feira (open-air market). It also has music and dancing on the weekends, both along the seafront and at the Lagoa (lagoon) de Abaeté, a few blocks away.


Lagoa de Abaeté, fêted in song by Dorival Caymmi...be careful of Oxum here!


The Farol (Lighthouse) de Itapoan

 

Vinicius de Moraes

Itapoan is where Dona Flor (from the Jorge Amado novel Dona Flor and Her Two Husbands) gave up her virginity to the scoundrel who was to become her first husband.  It was also home to poet/playwright/lyricist Vinícius de Moraes for a number of years, and composer Dorival Caymmi.  Vinícius, together with his collaborator Toquinho, wrote and performed an evocative hymn to the bucolic village of the time...

Listen to "Tarde em Itapoã"

 

There's samba on Friday nights in Itapoan at the bar of the Popular Cabocla...


No, her mother is the popular cabocla.


Dona Cabocla

 

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse
 

An English-Owned Hotel
 

ALL Hotels in Salvador

Itapoan was also the location of quilombo Buraco do Tatú (Armadillo Hole), established around 1743 and destroyed twenty years later.

Liberdade (Liberty) -- low-middle class to poor. It's kind of the Harlem of Salvador in that it is a huge, bustling neighborhood with a rich cultural background. A lot of capoeira came out of this area, and Liberdade is home to the African blocos Ilê Aiyê and Muzenza. I lived there for a year.

Speaking of Ilê Aiyê, the group's provenance is a specific area of Liberdade called "Curuzu" (their headquarters being situated on the Ladeira do Curuzu)...and given this it is fitting that Curuzu came into existence as a quilombo. The neighborhood where Timbalada came into existence also started as a quilombo (I'm speaking of Candeal, an area of Brotas), as did the neighborhoods of Calabar (a part of Federação) and Alto da Sereia (in Rio Vermelho).

Boca do Rio (Mouth of the River) -- on the Atlantic side, is not quite as far out as Itapoan. It is home to capoeira mestres Nô, Lázaro, and Jelon Vieira, and is for the most part lower-middle class to poor. I like Boca do Rio.

Engenho Velho de Federação (Old Mill of Federation) -- is a mostly poor neighborhood set on the territory of what was a sugarcane plantation (hence the engenho, or mill, which served to process the cane).  What this neighborhood lacks in material prosperity it more than makes up for in culture, Engenho Velho de Federação being home to 23 houses of Candomblé (including Bogum [Zoogodô Bogum Malê Rundó] and Casa Branca [Ilê Axé Yá Nassô] ).

Cabula -- is a neighborhood named for a quilombo which was finally destroyed in 1807, the quilombo's name deriving from a rhythm (example below) used in candomblé angola (brought and elaborated by the the Bantus, first group of slaves to arrive in Bahia).  This area -- the character of which ranges from poor to middle-class, numerous concrete apartment buildings and houses having been constructed in the 1970s -- is home to terreiros de candomblé Ilê Axé Opô Afonjá and Bate-Folha.

Listen to Cabula... and, if you'll listen closely enough to cabula...

...you'll hear the precursor to chula, and hence to samba.

Dois de Julho (2nd of July) -- is the area around Largo (Place) Dois de Julho, close to the city center.  This is where Dona Flor's first husband Vadinho died dancing samba during Carnival, and one of the streets in this area -- Rua do Sodré ("Sodré" is a Portugese surname) -- is where Dona Flor lived with both her first and second husbands and where she had her cooking school. The junction of Rua Carlos Gomes and Rua do Cabeça (which is one of the access streets to Dois de Julho; "Rua do Cabeça" is "Street of the Head, or Head Street", which in this sense -- given the masculine "do" rather than the feminine "da" -- denotes the head of something as opposed to a head unattached) was the fictional location of Dona Flor's second husband's pharmacy.  That pharmacy -- like so much local color in Jorge Amado's fiction -- was based on an actually existing pharmacy (Amado locating his fictional establishment upon the site of the real one -- Pharmácia Luz -- which is now a shop selling cheap jewelry).


Jorge Amado's fictional cuckolded (by a spirit) pharmacist was a "part-owner" here decades ago.

During the time in which Amado's novel was set (early 1940's I believe) the area was, as described by Amado himself in the novel, lower middle-class, and for the most  part it continues to be so today.  At the top of Rua do Sodré* -- which leads from Dois de Julho down to the Museu de Arte Sacre (Musem of Sacred Art, in the church of Santa Tereza) -- are several small and very typically Bahian bars, one of which serves infusões and where my friends and I like to sit and observe the local life.  As sunset approaches this area becomes very questionable.

* (The street was named for Jerônimo Sodré Pereira, of Santo Amaro, Bahia -- a town located at the north end of the Baía de Todos os Santos -- an area in which Sr. Pereira owned sugarcane plantations. He built a mansion on this street, the edifice nowadays housing a public school. Around the corner, on the Ladeira de Santa Tereza, No. 7, for many years lived somebody who had been purchased as an African (of an ethnicity now known as Yoruba, although the term wasn't used in his time; here in Bahia the term for these people was Nagô) by Jerônimo, Domingos Pereira Sodré, whose life and history have been so capably delineated and set forth by João José Reis in his book Domingos Sodré, um sacerdote africano (Domingos Sodré, an African Priest). Somewhere along the line of these wealthy planation owners and their intermingling with African women was sired the progenitor of the family of Raimundo Nonato Pereira Sodré, Raimundo Sodré, that magnificent repository of Afro-Bahian music.)

Preguiça (Laziness) -- The far end of Rua do Sodré (from Dois de Julho) runs into the Ladeira da Preguiça (a "ladeira" is a sloping street), which in turn winds its way down to the lower city.  The ladeira (the descending or ascending of which would nowadays invite robbery of anybody obviously a tourist) was in Salvador's early years the principal thoroughfare for the transportation of arriving cargo from the lower city to the upper.  Slaves did much of this work (their compatriots in this being burros and donkeys) and in return for their backbreaking labor they were made to constantly endure cries and accusations of laziness.  "Ladeira da Preguiça" is the title of a song Gilberto Gil song wrote for Elis Regina in 1971.


Elis Regina sings Ladeira da Preguiça


The bottom of the Ladeira da Preguiça gives onto Contorno, in the cidade baixa.


The Cemiterio dos Pisos -- where floor and wall tiles get a second life -- lies at the bottom of the Ladeira da Preguiça


TOURS of SALVADOR & ENVIRONS
by writer Ben Paris
The Good, the Bad, & the Beautiful
Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain

An American in Brazil
A-Class Service & Communication!
Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel

A San Francisco Native in Brazil
A-Class Service & Communication!
ALL Available Hotels
in Salvador!

All Hotels in Salvador

Much More Comfortable than
Sleeping on the Beach!
Home - Salvador Central

Home: Salvador Central

A Tour Guide to
Salvador & Environs

A Tour Guide to Salvador

Salvador, the City

Salvador & Its Spirit

A Short History of
Salvador da Bahia

A Short History of Salvador da Bahia

Carnival in Salvador

Carnival in Salvador

What Brazil Does Best...

Salvador's Music Site

The World Cup in Salvador

World Cup Salvador

Salvador's Old City: Pelourinho

Salvador's Old City

Salvador's Neighborhoods, Streets,
Praças & Byways

Salvador's Neighborhoods

Blood, Sweat, & Prayers: Salvador Sites
& History

Salvador Sites

Once Upon a Night in Brazil:
A Short History of
Brazilian Music

A History of Brazilian Music

Sweet Fields, Bitter Harvest:
The Music of Bahia

Music of Bahia

And the Whole Musical Planet!

Salvador's Music Site

About Us

About Us

The Sacred & the Profana: Festas

Festas

Food & Eating Out in Salvador

Food in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador

Salvador's Beach Scene

Salvador's Beaches

Islands in the Bay

Islands in the Bay

What's On in Salvador

What's On in Salvador

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Download GREAT
Brazilian Music

Download Great Brazilian Music

Ubiquitous Deities: Candomblé

Candomblé

Capoeira: Dance Like a Baryshnikov, Hit Like a Kalashnikov

Capoeira

Salvador's Afoxés & Blocos Afros

Salvador's Afoxe's & Blocos Afros

Percussion Classes in Salvador:
Heaviest Hands

Percussion Classes in Salvador

Brazilian Music
Workshops & Tours

Brazilian Music Workshops

Group Lodging in Salvador:
Professional & Student

Group Lodging in Salvador

Learning Portuguese:
Lessons & Classes

Learning Portuguese

Money Matters

Money Matters

Buying Property in Salvador

Buying Property in Salvador

S.O.S. Brazil: Volunteer Work

Volunteer Work

How to Avoid Being
Robbed & Cheated

How to Avoid Being Robbed & Cheated

Off Salvador's Beaten Track

Off Salvador's Beaten Track

How to Get Around:
Buses, Taxis, & Cars

How to Get Around

Black Market: Bahian Bazaar

Black Market

Outside of Salvador

Outside of Salvador

Other Voices

Other Voices

Kindred Spirits &
Fellow Travellers

Kindred Spirits

Fiction from Bahia

Fiction from Bahia

Dental Help in Salvador

Dental Help in Salvador

Current Weather & the Forecast

Current Weather

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse!

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse

An English-Owned Hotel!

An English-Owned Hotel

ALL Available Hotels
in Salvador!

All Hotels in Salvador


Saude (Health) -- is an old, interesting, somewhat crumbling neighborhood in the style of Pelourinho but with no commercialization for the tourist trade.


The Igreja da Saude, on the Larga da Saude

From Pelourinho, Saude lies just across from the Baixa dos Sapateiros (Cobbler's Low Area, so called because it traces the divide between the hills of Pelourinho and Saude and because of a common trade once practiced there).  Nowadays the Baixa dos Sapateiros is given over to cheap shops with hawkers calling out to potential customers as they pass on the sidewalk, but in the 1930's the area -- or presumably a lovely young thing in the area -- inspired the great Ary Barroso to write what has become Bahia's most enduring "theme song", Na Baixa do Sapateiro ("In the Baixa do Sapateiro"; for some reason the song title is in the singular).

The Cine Janadaia in the Baixa dos Sapateiros is where the film which inspired the adoption of Indian garb -- and thereafter the adoption of Gandhi's name -- by afoxé Filhos de Gandhy, was shown in 1949 (the film was Gunga Din). Carmen Miranda sang here in 1932, witnessed by an eighteen-year-old Dorival Caymmi (who would later figure so importantly in Carmen's adoption of stylized Bahiana fashion, following her recording of his O Que É Que a Baiana Tem?).

Moving back in time, before the Baixa dos Sapateiras was a street it was a stream called Rio das Tripas (Tripe River)...where the unwanted refuge of Salvador's slaughterhouse district (Barroquinha) was tossed (Barroquinha's slaughterhouses are long gone, the area since having become a city bus terminal).


Igreja da Barroquinha, on the Ladeira da Barroquinha (to the right)

Barroquinha was named for a church (Nossa Senhora da Barroquinha) behind which, incidentally, the precursors to Salvador's oldest continually existing houses of candomblé were founded (Casa Branca and Gantois). The church was also the seat of the Confraria de Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte (Sisterhood of Our Lady of the Good Death) -- a group mixing elements of Catholicism and candomblé -- which subsequently decamped for the town of Cachoeira (where their festa is held yearly, in August).

Ribeira -- Ribeira has several senses, one of which is a coastal area where the water completely washes out at low tide, allowing the maintainance and repair of boats. There was such an area where the Segunda Distrito Naval (Second Naval District) is now located...


Segundo Distrito Naval

...an area which at one time was known as Ribeira das Naus (a nau being a three-masted ship). The name ribeira came to denote this entire part of the city (nowadays known as comércio; praia, or beach, was also used to denote this area, from which is derived the last part of the full name of the church Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia).

Space being insufficient here for the volume of work to be done, a similar enterprise was set up on another ribeira on the peninsula of Itapajipe (alternatively spelled "Itapagipe"), with the name Ribeira dos Galeões, and this is the area today known as Ribeira.

Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays are big days on the beaches and in the bars and restaurants of Ribeira, Mondays because this was the day-off for a large contingent of workers at the Pólo Petroquímico industrial park in Camaçari, to the north of Salvador. Cozido, a vegetable-and-meat stew, is traditional Monday fare in the beachside restaurants.

Segunda-Feira Gorda (Fat Monday) is a festa popular in Ribeira, falling on the Monday following the Lavagem do Bonfim (which always falls on a Thursday).

Pituba/Itaigara -- are two neighborhoods which in fact merge to form one, and doing likewise with Caminho das Árvores (Trail of the Trees) they form a triumverate of middle and upper-middle class Salvador, home to doctors, engineers, and lawyers. These areas are usually not interesting to visitors seeking local flavor, though even here one may see rodas de capoeira in open areas in the evenings. I lived in this area for a year.

Barris (Barrels) -- ...Hey! That's where I live now! I like it because it's right smack in the center of the city and close to a lot of good stuff. Plus it's quiet, in spite of being a three-minute walk to Carnaval. Around the corner, on Saturdays, when the high school gets out, there's usually samba da roda (making that high school doubly different from mine in Indianapolis -- we didn't have classes on Saturday and we sure as hell didn't have any samba de roda!).

The name comes from the fact that people would fetch water (or send to have it fetched) -- in barrels -- from a freshwater spring located in a valley between what is now Barris and what is now the neighborhood of Tororó (that valley is now the Lapa city bus terminal).

Barris was home to one of Bahia's principal slave traffickers, the Marquês de Barbacena, whose once sumptuous mansion is now a crappy public school. The house passed from the Marquês's hands to those of another slave trafficker, Domingos José Martins, who in 1806 hosted Napoleon Bonaparte's youngest son Jérôme in the house.

Tororó is is another central neighborhood, which for some reason (or perhaps for no reason at all!) is fertile ground for great sambistas. Paulinho do Reco has lived there all his life...


Paulinho do Reco in Cana Brava Records

One of Paulinho's best known compositions is Negrume da Noite (Darkness of the Night), which he wrote for bloco afro Ilê Aiyê. Below is Virgínia Rodrigues' version...

 

Sambistas Walmir Lima and Ederaldo Gentil are also from Tororó. Below, Ederaldo sings his O Ouro e a Madeira (The Gold and the Wood)...

 

And below is Mariene de Castro's version of Walmir Lima's Ilha de Maré (Tide Island), accompanying clips from the film Ó Paí, Ó (set and filmed in Pelourinho; Ilha de Maré is the film's theme song). There is rather a bit much of Emanuelle Araújo's butt-wagging here, something that the average Bahiana on the street is better at, but whatever... Emanuelle used to sing for Banda Eva, replacing Ivete Sangalo when Ivete went solo. Getting back to Walmir, he's 80 years old now and is still going strong, singing his sambas and everybody else's!

 

Garcia is just across the way from Tororó, named for a family which once owned the land and extending from the working-class end around the public square to the middle-class end at Campo Grande. Garcia is home to one of Salvador's premier sambistas, a 5 foot 4 inch package of dynamite by the name of Clementino Rodrigues but generally known as Riachão (riachão is "creek"...when Riachão was a small boy he was known for always being in fights, one day one of the older folks asking him, using an adage common to the area, "Are you a creek that can't be crossed?" And he's been Riachão ever since). Three of Riachão's compositions were recorded by the immortal Jackson do Pandeiro.

Below is the trailer for a documentary on Riachão...sweet!

 

Santo Antônio (Saint Anthony) -- is pretty much of an extension of Pelourinho, though much more given to residencial living. Santo Antônio is part of Salvador's Centro Histórico and and most of the houses date from the colonial era. At the far end from Pelourinho is the Largo (square) de Santo Antônio, banked by a church (Santo Antônio of course) and a fort (the Forte de Santo Antônio, in keeping with the trend), the fort being home to a lot of capoeira angola. Gilberto Gil lived in Santo Antônio, and decades before him Josué de Barros, who would "discover" Carmen Miranda and introduce her into the world of professional singing.


Igreja Da Terçeira Ordem do Carmo, in Santo Antônio

Pituba/Itaigara -- are two neighborhoods which in fact merge to form one, and doing likewise with Caminho das Árvores (Trail of the Trees) they form a triumverate of middle and upper-middle class Salvador, home to doctors, engineers, and lawyers. These areas are usually not interesting to visitors seeking local flavor, though even here one may see rodas de capoeira in open areas in the evenings. It was here that Caetano Veloso was living in the late 1960s when he was arrested by the dictatorship, imprisoned for two-and-a-half months, and then exiled.

Rio Vermelho (Red River) -- is where the great Festa da Yemenjá (goddess of the sea) takes place on February 2nd. It was home to the writer Jorge Amado and is currently home to singer Gal Costa (who bought her house overlooking the Praia da Paciéncia -- Patience Beach -- from musical colleague Caetano Veloso). Gilberto Gil has a home in the area too. Lots of bars and restaurants.


Carybé's rendering of the Largo de Santana, in Rio Vermelho


Nowadays...

The name comes from a "river" giving onto the Atlantic Ocean (I use quotes because what was at one time a small river has become a concretized gutter), the name of this river being "Camurujipe", a Portuguese twisting of the original Tupí "Camarajibe" -- or "River of the Camarás".  Given that a camará is a small red flower which in earlier times grew in abundance here in Salvador, a more accurate rendering would be "Rio das Flores Vermelhas" ("River of the Red Flowers"), but that's quite a mouthful of syllables.

Ondina -- Carnival ends here (see the "Carnival" section), several kilometers up from Barra. Ondina has a nice urban beach and some of the big, standard-style hotels (Othon Palace, etc.). Up on a bluff overlooking Ondina proper is the Alta da Ondina (Ondina Heights) with a lovely, windswept, and almost lonely-feeling view of the Atlantic and city below. There's a restaurant up there taking advantage of that view, the eponymous Alta da Ondina. I haven't eaten there, so although I can recommend the vista, I'm not in a position right now to say anything about the establishment itself (other than it looks good). A large part of the Federal University of Bahia campus is in Ondina, as well as the city zoo.

Subúrbio (Suburbia) -- is, as the name implies, not a single neighborhood, but comprises rather the neighborhoods on the city's perimeter. And, in great contrast to Europe or the U.S., this is not where the working middle-class flees to; it is where the vast majority of the city's poor people live. Some of the neighborhoods encountered as one follows Avenida Suburbana along the inside of the bay are Alagados (literally "Flooded"; these are the houses on stilts that one sometimes sees in photographs or paintings), Plataforma, Ilha Amarela ("Yellow Island", which isn't an island at all but was christened during an epidemic of yellow fever, when the area was quarantined), Periperi, and Paripe.

Most of this area looks like the Garden of Eden after having been scattered by God with clay-red dice. The dice are where people live, their dwellings (the humbler ones are called "barracos") built up a little bit at a time (finances permitting) using the clay block ubiquitous to Brazil. It is very rare that the outside of the block is finished, people preferring to devote their limited resources to the inside. The main streets are usually (badly) paved, but most of the others are dirt paths populated by children, dogs, and roosters. The immediate impression is usually not of grinding poverty, but this is almost a trick of the light. People make do and get by, barely; conversation, radio, TV, dominoes, family, the occasional beer and get-together making up the day-to-day activities. Public education in these areas is a national disgrace, the government pleading poverty while earning salaries, benefits, and retirement packages worthy of King Midas (in addition to the perks of rampant and endemic corruption).

Periperi is home to and seat of bloco afro/musical-social organization Ara Ketu.

Campo Grande (Big Field) -- is not strictly a neighborhood, but the name of what is essentially the Central Park of Salvador is used for the surrounding area. The park is the beginning and end point for the Campo Grande - Praça Castro Alves Carnival circuit. (one of two, the other being Barra - Ondina). At Carnival time Campo Grande is full of barracas, Port-A-Potties, and, up in the reviewing stands, government bigwigs anxious to demonstrate that they are a part of the povão ("people", with overtones of riffraff) too.

 

Cosme de Farias -- was originally called Quinta das Beatas due to the fact that a large part of the land on which the neighborhood was founded belonged at one time to a nunnery ("quinta" is an expanse of land, and "beatas" is akin to "religious", per "beatified").  Sometime during the 1960s a man small in stature and great of heart moved from the Rua da Independência -- close to the Baixo dos Sapateiros -- to Quinta das Beatas, and this neighborhood eventually came to bear his name.   The name was something unneeded by writer Jorge Amado...he took rather the life and personality of his friend and upon these built the character Damião de Souza in his novel Tenda dos Milagres (Tent of Miracles)...a thin disguise in that the twin saints Cosme & Damião are an important part of life in Bahia.  Sr. de Farias' funeral procession in 1972 -- from Pelourinho to the cemetery at Quintas do Lázaros -- was the largest to ever have taken place in Bahia.

Lawyer/Savior of the poor by day, bohemian by night

Cosme de Farias would say "Na Bahia, quem rouba um tostão é ladrão. Quem rouba um milhão é barão" (In Bahia, somebody who steals a nickel is a thief. Somebody who steals a million is a baron.")


São Domingos, on the Terreiro de Jesus

Cosme de Farias's "office" for serving his poor clients was in the open door to the right above, now selling handmade shirts, tourist paraphernalia, etc.

Alagados (Flooded) -- * Note: This is taken from the "Volunteer Work" page. -- Alagados means "flooded", and refers to shacks built over water on stilts, a scene frequently and picturesquely displayed in a lot of guide books. These "houses" are not picturesque at all; they are horrid and dangerous both in terms of human violence and health and sanitation conditions. "Jardim Cruzeiro" means "Garden Cross", and this is an area built over garbage landfill set just in from Alagados, over what used to comprise Alagados itself. Jardim Cruzeiro now looks like any other poor neighborhood in Salvador, and for longtime residents that is a big step up.


HELP!!!!!
Get Brazil's Most Historically Important & Moving Music!
And Help Finance Alumínio Saturno's Fight Against Prostate Cancer!
A Hand to Someone Deserving Never Sounded So Great!

Here's the story: Alumínio Saturno is one of Brazil's most important musicians. And one of its poorest. He, together with his brother João do Boi, leads Samba Chula de São Braz, an absolutely magnificent ensemble working in Brazil's deepest musical genre, analogous in Brazil to the delta blues in the United States. João is first voice, and Alumínio is first pandeiro (tambourine).


Alumínio in better days

Alumínio has been devastated by prostate cancer. No more samba for him. He sits at home, wasted away, wearing his urine collection bag and awaiting surgery in a public hospital in Salvador. Alumínio's main source of income has been subsistence farming, which he is now unable to maintain. His brother, the iconic João do Boi, is a street cleaner in their home town (which began life as a quilombo, a village of runaway slaves.


This is brother João do Boi, right (in his streetcleaning uniform), with percussionist Badega

A local producer got these guys (Samba Chula de São Braz) to Womex several years ago (Womex is a music industry extension of Peter Gabriel's World of Music and Dance), and they played several countries in Europe, and Israel, to deserved acclaim. That's all over for now.

So, I'm making their CD available for download online, nine U.S. bucks. Every centavo that comes in (after the Bandcamp service takes out their commission) is going straight to Alumínio, taken to his house personally by me. I'll put up a list of contributor/downloaders, and if you'd like for me to include any information about yourself, I'll gladly do so.

 

Alumínio can be seen dancing in the clip above, made outside his brother's house. Alumíno gets up to samba after João and then João's daughter, Alumínio's niece. Will Alumínio ever samba again? I don't know, but you can help to maybe make it possible.

Go HERE to buy/contribute - listen/check it out (you can check the music out for free)!

The entire CD is 9 U.D. dollars (you can pay in any currency) If you'd like to donate more, that's up to you!

I can be contacted at sparrowroberts@gmail.com --

 
Salvador, the City

Salvador & Its Spirit
An Introduction to Salvador, Brazil

A Short History

A Short History of Salvador da Bahia
Some History of Salvador, Brazil

Musicians' Area

Salvador's Music Site
Non-musicians welcome too

Carnival in Salvador

Carnival in Salvador
Carnival in Salvador, Brazil

The World Cup

World Cup Salvador
The World Cup in Salvador, Brazil

The Old City: Pelourinho

Salvador's Old City
The Old Town in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador's Neighborhoods

Salvador's Neighborhoods
Neighborhoods in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador Sites & History

Salvador Sites
Some Sites in Salvador, Brazil

Brazilian Music

A History of Brazilian Music
Brazil's Brilliant Musical History

Apartment Rental: Alain

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain
Apartments in Salvador, Brazil

The Music of Bahia

Music of Bahia
About Music in Salvador, Brazil

Bangin' Brazilian Music!


Listen to Music from Salvador, Brazil!

About Us

About Us
Stranger in a Strange Land

The Sacred & the Profana

Festas
Festas in Salvador, Brazil

Apartment Rental: Daniel

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel
Apartments in Salvador, Brazil

Food & Eating Out in Salvador

Food in Salvador
Cuisine in Salvador, Brazil

Drinking in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador
Tippling in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador's Beach Scene

Salvador's Beaches
Beaches in and About Salvador, Brazil

Islands in the Bay

Islands in the Bay
Islands in Salvador's Baía de Todos os Santos

An English-Owned Hotel!

An English-Owned Hotel
British Organization in Salvador, Brazil

What's On in Salvador

What's On in Salvador
Happenings in Salvador, Brazil

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions
Questions About Salvador, Brazil

Download Music

Download Great Brazilian Music
Get Music!

Ubiquitous Deities: Candomblé

Candomblé
Candomblé in Salvador, Brazil

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse!

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse
Musically Informed and Inspired

Capoeira: Dance Like a Baryshnikov, Hit Like
a Kalashnikov

Capoeira
Capoeira in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador's Afoxés &
Blocos Afros

Salvador's Afoxe's & Blocos Afros
Salvador's African Carnival Music

Percussion Classes in Salvador: Heaviest Hands

Percussion Classes in Salvador
Great Percussion Teachers in Salvador

Brazilian Music
Workshops & Tours

Brazilian Music Workshops
Music Tours of Salvador & Environs

Fiction from Bahia

Fiction from Bahia
Fiction Conceived and Written Here

Group Lodging in Salvador Professional & Student

Group Lodging in Salvador
Lodging in Salvador, Brazil

Learning Portuguese:
Lessons & Classes

Learning Portuguese
Portuguese Classes in Salvador, Brazil

Money Matters

Money Matters
Where to Change Money, etc.

Buying Property in Salvador

Buying Property in Salvador
Property in Salvador, Brazil

Dental Help in Salvador

Dental Help in Salvador
Hopefully you won't need it, but...

S.O.S. Brazil: Volunteer Work

Volunteer Work
Helping in Salvador, Brazil

How to Avoid Problems

How to Avoid Being Robbed & Cheated
Prudence in Salvador, Bahia

Off Salvador's Beaten Track

Off Salvador's Beaten Track
Far from the Maddening Crowds

Buses, Taxis, & Cars

How to Get Around
Gettin' Around in Salvador, Brazil

Current Weather & the Forecast

Current Weather
The Weather in Salvador, Brazil

Black Market: Bahian Bazaar

Black Market
Out of the Common Purchases

Outside of Salvador

Outside of Salvador
Ranging Outside of Salvador, Brazil

Other Voices

Other Voices
On Brazil, Life & Culture

Kindred Spirits

Kindred Spirits
Related Tenuously But Truly

Salvador Tours

 A Tour Guide to Salvador
A Writer's Tours