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TOURS of SALVADOR & ENVIRONS
by writer Ben Paris
The Good, the Bad, & the Beautiful



WORLD CUP 2014

CONTENTS
The Sacred & the Profana

The quantity of festas in Bahia is often remarked upon, often together in the same cliched breath along with "Terra da Alegria" ("Land of Happiness") or some such other similar hyperbole.  Happy?  That's debatable, certainly improbable given the widespread economic conditions here.  But buoyant, resiliant, appreciative?   Among the various traits and qualities which form the general ethos of Bahia, these three could be said to run wide, and deep.

And the buoyancy of the common people bubbles to the surface in part in the form of the festas populares (the largest and best known of which is of course Carnival), parties where the vicissitudes of life are temporarily cast off and old as well as young vão no pé (get up on their feet), moving in Bahian expression to the rhythms of Africa (albeit often layered under a sheen of sythesizers and pop stylings). The yearly cycle is generally considered to kick in with the Festa de Santa Bárbara, so that's where I'll begin...

(Note: In Portuguese the term festa profana is often used, in contrast to festa religiosa.  "Profana" simply means a non-religious component of something religious (i.e., a festival), unlike the English-language connotation of something vulgar or irreverent.)

Festa de Santa Bárbara
(Iansã)

December 4th. Santa Bárbara is syncretized with Iansã, wife of Xangô and goddess of the winds. A mass is celebrated in her honor at church Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos (9 a.m.), and later (11:00 a.m.) a procession proceeds through Pelourinho to the Corpo de Bombeiros (Fire Station) in the Baixa dos Sapateiros, where participants are greeted by the sounding of sirens (Santa Bárbara is the patron saint of firefighters) and a grand carurú to be served to the public. From there everything moves on to the Mercado de Santa Bárbara where the stallholders have prepared their own carurús to be served to the public (5 p.m.), and where it is very, very crowded. Red and white are the colors to be worn. Epa hei!

The clip above is from the 1962 film Pagador de Promessas, which won the Palm d'Or in Cannes that year. The setting is the Escadaria de Carmo, leading up to the Igreja do Passo (Igreja de Santa Bárbara in the film) on the day of the festa.


Carurú at the Corpo de Bombeiros in the Baixa dos Sapateiros on December 4th

December 4th, day of the Festa da Santa Bárbara!
Epa hei!

Saint Barbara's father was killed by lightning after having beheaded his daughter for becoming a Christian (so the story goes). That's the connection for the syncretization of Santa Bárbara with Iansã, Yoruba deity of lightning and storms.

Thus December 4th is the day for both, with a morning Mass in the Largo do Pelourinho, a good part of the congregated wearing red and white, Iansã's colors, calling "Epa hei!" to each other in the traditional greeting to Iansã.

Then follows a procession through Pelourinho -- lovely! -- to the firehouse in the Baixo dos Sapateiros (Santa Bárbara is their patron saint) and then on to the Mercado Santa Bárbara several blocks down the street, thus almost completing a circle on the map.

The Mercado Santa Bárbara is the scene of an extremely crowded party, which then spreads across the street and into Pelourinho, where it runs late into the night.

This festival begins with sweetness & light, devolving in the late afternoon into what can be rough -- especially for obvious tourists -- in the area around the bottom of the Largo do Pelourinho.


Maria Bethânia looks down from the Santa Casa da Misericórdia as the icon of Santa Barbara passes below (Tuesday, Dec. 4th, 2012)


December 8th, Festa da Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia

You've got to hand it to the way Catholic feast days happen here in Salvador. For example, December 8th is the feast day of Nossa Senhora da Conceição -- Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception -- a putative commemoration of the day in 1854 that Pope Pius IX declared it to be dogma that Mary was conceived without the Original Sin resultant from Adam's partaking and sharing of the Forbidden Fruit in the Garden of Eden, ecclesiastic understandings which would lead to theological pronouncements upon unbaptised babies condemned to hell (St. Augustine), later to be modified to eternity in limbo (as explicitly expressed by Pope Pius X, for whom the elementary school I attended was named), limbo later to be waved away by current Pope Benedict XVI (presumably a great relief for a great many African, Asian, and Jewish baby souls, assuming St. Augustine doesn't have God's ear).


The cortejo of Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia, opening the festa of December 8th in the Cidade Baixa


Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Conceição

Morning Mass is celebrated in the church in the cidade baixa (lower city) named for this particular designation for Mary, and the rest of the day is beer and music. Original Sin be damned!


Conceição interior

Festa de Santa Luzia

December 13th, on Rua do Pilar in Comércio.

Reveillon (New Year's Eve)...

...is traditionally celebrated by dressing in white, lighting votive candles set into depressions in the sand on the beach, and tossing flowers into the sea in offering to Yemanjá, goddess of the salt waters.  Then in common with much of the rest of the world, the turning of the year is marked by spectacular shows of fireworks (at the Farol da Barra and at various points northward along the seafront).  Following this, in front of the farol (lighthouse), on an enormous stage set up for the purpose, are musical performances which are televised throughout Brazil.

Beginning in 2013/2014 the traditional show will be in the Praça Cayru in front of the Mercado Modelo...the turn of the year taking place to usual suspects Caetano Veloso and Gilberto Gil on stage. The several nights leading up to the 31st will feature live music as well.

(I wonder about the wisdom of a big show there. The available area seems too small to me for the crowd I imagine will show up.)

During the hours leading up to midnight the whole stretch from the farol to Porto da Barra is packed with people, while the beach at Porto da Barra is set up for partying: barracas decorated with palm fronds, tables on the beach, sound-systems, etc. The party at Porto continues on for hours after midnight.

But another, even better place to be after midnight is on and around Boa Viagem, a beach on Itapagipe (the peninsula where the Igreja do Bonfim is located), close to the fort of Montserrat.  The party there (which is very much of the povo, or common people) moves into the daylight hours, and then a yearly ritual takes place, the...

...Festa do Senhor Bom Jesus dos Navegantes

This is the movement of a boat aptly called Gratidão do Povo (Gratitude of the People) -- carrying an image of Senhor Bom Jesus dos Navegantes -- into the water of the bay from a church there, by means of rails, to be accompanied in a maritime procession by a flotilla of other boats.  By now it's well into a new day and a new year, and probably time to go home.

New Year's Eve in Salvador, Bahia

New Year's Eve in Salvador is like, and unlike, New Year's Eve anywhere else.

Yes, there are fireworks at midnight, and music (there is always a huge show at the Farol da Barra, the lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula upon which Salvador sits), but Reveillon (New Year's) in Salvador is really given over to Yemanjá.

Yemanjá is the goddess of the sea, the great mother, and Bahians by the thousands dress in white and toss flowers into the sea as offerings...in hope of gaining her beneficence throughout the year to come. This resonates especially in the small fishing villages of the Recôncavo, where beneficence can quite literally be life.

     

Festa da Lapinha (or de Reis)

Takes place from the 3rd through the 6th of January in the Largo da Lapinha, in remembrance of the Three Wise Men of the Nativity. Interestingly, this festa had a lot to do with the development of Carnaval in Rio, something which I'll have to take up at a later date.

Lavagem do Bonfim

Thursday, January 16th, 2014

This is Salvador's second biggest festa, with a moveable date, which is the Thursday before the second Sunday after the Dia de Reis (the Epiphany...the day the Christ-Child was visited by the Three Wise Men led by the star) on January 6th (that second Sunday sees the Festa de Bonfim, the lavagem -- washing -- originally being a scrubbing of the church in preparation for the Sunday festa).  The Lavagem do Bonfim is a paragon of Bahia's syncretism and merging of the sacred and the irreverent, wherein a group of flower-carrying Baianas -- followed by tens of thousands of people (a cortejo) -- walks from the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição in the cidade baixo, to the Igreja do Bonfim (a Catholic church) -- and where upon arrival the Baianas wash the steps of the church in honor of the Senhor do Bonfim (who is either Jesus Christ, or Oxalá, or both, depending on how you look at it).

It's a huge party the whole way, with lots and lots of batucada (drumming), and a huge party around and behind the Mercado Modelo (earlier in the day), and a monstrous party around the Igreja do Bonfim (later in the day and into the night).

The first to arrive at the Igreja do Bonfim, having walked the 8 kilometers from the Igreja da Conceição, are the Baianas, closely followed by the publicity-seeking politicians, followed upon by the drumming, dancing, cerveja-imbibing multitudes.


Photo of the Lavagem do Bonfim, from the collection of the Instituto Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatística, no year given

The celebratory step-washing is touted as, and in some respect in fact is, a manifestation of the syncreticism of Catholicism and Candomblé, but the fact that it's the steps that are washed and not the interior of the church itself is a reflection of a Catholic (and not so catholic) repudiation of the West African beliefs by the church poobahs.

In the immortal words of Paulinho Camafeu (who wrote the Ilê Aiyê athem Que Bloco É Esse), quem tem fé, vai à pé (he or she who has faith, goes on foot!). The anthem now associated with the Lavagem is Walmir Lima's Ilha de Maré.

Ah, eu vim de Ilha de Maré minha senhora
Prá fazer samba na Lavagem do Bonfim
Saltei na rampa do mercado e segui na direção
Cortejo armado na Igreja da Conceição
Aí de carroça andei, comadre,
Aí de carroça andei, compadre

Ah, quando eu cheguei no Bonfim minha senhora
Da carroça enfeitada eu saltei
Com água, flores e perfume,
A escada da colina eu lavei

Aí foi que eu sambei, compadre
Aí foi que eu sambei, comadre...
Aí foi que eu sambei, compadre
Aí foi que eu sambei, comadre...

Ah, I've come from Tide Island my lady
To samba at the Lavagem do Bonfim
I got off at the market ramp and headed for the cortege

Ready at the Church of the Immaculate Conception
From there I went by wagon, comrade,
From there I went by wagon, compadre

Ah, when I arrived in Bonfim my lady
From the decorated wagon I descended
And with water, flowers and perfume,
I washed the stairway on the hill

And it was then that I sambaed, compadre
And it was then that I sambaed, comrade...
And it was then that I sambaed, compadre
And it was then that I sambaed, comrade.


TOURS of SALVADOR & ENVIRONS
by writer Ben Paris
The Good, the Bad, & the Beautiful
Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain

An American in Brazil
A-Class Service & Communication!
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A San Francisco Native in Brazil
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ALL Available Hotels
in Salvador!

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Much More Comfortable than
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Home - Salvador Central

Home: Salvador Central

A Tour Guide to
Salvador & Environs

A Tour Guide to Salvador

Salvador, the City

Salvador & Its Spirit

A Short History of
Salvador da Bahia

A Short History of Salvador da Bahia

Carnival in Salvador

Carnival in Salvador

Musicians' Area

Salvador's Music Site

The World Cup in Salvador

World Cup Salvador

Salvador's Old City: Pelourinho

Salvador's Old City

Salvador's Neighborhoods, Streets,
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Salvador's Neighborhoods

Blood, Sweat, & Prayers: Salvador Sites
& History

Salvador Sites

Once Upon a Night in Brazil:
A Short History of
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A History of Brazilian Music

Sweet Fields, Bitter Harvest:
The Music of Bahia

Music of Bahia

LISTEN to Music from Bahia!
Hottest Rhythms, Coolest Tunes

About Us

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The Sacred & the Profana: Festas

Festas

Food & Eating Out in Salvador

Food in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador

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Salvador's Beach Scene

Salvador's Beaches

Islands in the Bay

Islands in the Bay

What's On in Salvador

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Frequently Asked Questions

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Ubiquitous Deities: Candomblé

Candomblé

Capoeira: Dance Like a Baryshnikov, Hit Like a Kalashnikov

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Salvador's Afoxés & Blocos Afros

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Walmir Lima at the Lavagem do Bonfim (or on his way out there, rather)

Festa da Ribeira

...or Segunda-Feira Gorda (Fat Monday), the Monday immediately following the Lavagem do Bonfim.  The barracas (drink stands) around the Igreja do Bonfim pull up and move down the way to the neighborhood of Ribeira, where there is another huge party along the waterfront.

Festa de São Lazaro (Saint Lazarus)

January 25th through 28th.  Celebrated at and around the Igreja de São Lazaro in the neighborhood of Federação.  São Lazaro is syncretized with Omolu -- the orixá governing sickness and health -- and during mass inside the church worshippers receive a banho de pipoca (popcorn bath), a ritual common in candomblé.

Lavagem de Itapoan

Big. Trio elétricos. Takes place in Itapoan (or rather, it stretches along the seacoast from Piatã to Itapoan). This is the last lavagem before Carnival (and it can be rough).

Lavagem de Santo Amaro

Celebrated for over 200 years (originally by slaves) in the town of Santo Amaro, in the Recôncavo (73 km distant from Salvador), this festa is historically set on the first Sunday before the Festa de Nossa Senhora de Purificação, but has grown to encompass the week or so before that Sunday and several days after.  Lots of samba de roda.


João do Boi and his wife Nicinha at the Lavagem de Santo Amaro, 2010

Festa de Yemanjá

February 2nd.  One of Salvador's most beloved (and beautiful) festas, and another exemplar of Salvador's melding of the sacred and not quite profane.  The morning of the 2nd is announced with the sound of fireworks (at 5:00 a.m.), and the faithful arrive early to the seaside neighborhood of Rio Vermelho, bringing flowers and other gifts for Yemanjá, Yoruban goddess of the salt waters.  The offerings are left in the Casa do Peso (the weighing house used by the local fisherman) after the givers have endured the long lines leading up to the repository, the gifts to be gathered up and placed into boats which at 4 p.m. or so will make their way 6 miles out into the waves to place floating, gift-bearing baskets upon the water.  Offerings which do not return to shore are deemed accepted.


Abençoado

This all takes place to the accompaniment of wandering troupes of drummers, street capoeira, and general merriment and abandon.  As the day wears on the festa becomes more and more carnivalesque -- thousands of people pouring in -- inexorably evolving into a dancing, surging street party of gargantuan proportions.


A Festa da Yemanjá


A Festa da Yemanjá (and no, she's not about to sneeze, as my young daughter suggested)


A Festa da Yemanjá


A Festa da Yemanjá

Carnival

... begins on March 3rd in 2011.  This king of festivals is deserving of its own section and is covered here.

Festa de Arembepe

...takes place in Arembepe, 42 km to the north of Salvador, on a determined date during the month of February.

The Bembé do Mercado
in Santo Amaro, Bahia


The Santo Amaro feira, across the street from...


The public terreiro in the market square, prepared for the Bembé.


The Bembé in full swing, on May 13th, 2010

Santo Amaro is here, at the north end of the Baía de Todos os Santos.

The origin of the name is polemical...some say it's a deliberate corruption of candomblé, meant to disguise the fact of what was actually happening in the market square. Another take is that of ethnolinguist Yeda Pessoa de Castro (per Luzia's book below), which is (my translation):

"Bembé is a word which could have two etymologies. One is Fon (Yoruba/Nagô), Bembé meaning "drum"... It could also be of Bantu (Congo/Angola) origin, in this case meaning a religious ceremony, praise, a prayer, as with the word candomblé itself..."

Why the 13th of May? Because it was on that date in 1888 that slavery was abolished in Brazil, by the signature of Princesa Isabel, Princesa Imperial Regente. And it was on the 13th of May in 1889 (some say it was several days earlier) that candomblé priest João Obá stood by the Subae river just off of Santo Amaro's market square and began to play a rhythm which when played in a house of candomblé was/is meant to call down a deity.


Filhas de Santo at the Bembé

One by one others arrived, and began dancing the dances of candomblé in what was the first instance of these religious manifestations being conducted outside a place meant for that purpose. And so a century later the tradition continues in Santo Amaro's market square proper, on the Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday incorporating May 13th (although Friday, being the day of Oxalá and a day in which candomblé is never conducted, sees a respite; the other activities which are ancillary to the Bembé, the samba-de-roda, capoeira and maculelê, continue). This year's Bembé honors the sixty years of activity of Mãe Lídia de Oxagian, of terreiro Ilê Axé Omâm, as a mãe-de-santo (head priestess; her image can be seen hanging in a couple of preceding photos of the Bembé).


Maurício Pessoa with friends in Santo Amaro

The stage in the market square sees excellent music provided by musicians in the majority from Santo Amaro, this facet of the Bembé being organized by estimable Maurício Pessoa, music producer par excellence! (Maurício is also organizing the Brazilian music for the upcoming World Cup in South Africa.)


Juliana Ribeiro, roots samba onstage at the Bembé, 2010

Santo Amaro has a famous Veloso (Caetano), but it's the non-famous Veloso there (Rodrigo, Caetano's brother) who, in his capacity as Santo Amaro's secretary of culture, is working to preserve and promote Santo Amaro's deep, wonderful, and historically important heritage. Rodrigo is the festival's executive organizer.


Rodrigo Veloso

The festa has been celebrated every year since with the exceptions of 1958 (when an explosion/fire killed 300 people) and 1989 (when the biggest flood in the history of the city took place).  The festa is now regarded as protecting the city!

Corpus Christi

The 10th of June.  Celebrated in Pelourinho.

Festa de Santo Antônio

The Festa de Santo Antônio falls officially on June 13th. But this being Bahia, it runs for the week before, in the Largo de Santo Antônio, at the far end of the bairro of Santo Antônio além do Carmo, Santo Antônio in effect being feted with beer and peanuts. The Festa de Santo Antônio is a part of the buildup to the Festa de São João. Viva!

* Santo Antônio is the patron saint of matrimony, his assistance sought by young women hoping (praying) for husbands.

São João (Saint John)

June 24th is the official date for the festa, but the buildup runs all through June. This buildup consists of forró (foHO) -- hillbilly music, sometimes of great artistry (Luiz Gonzaga, and his son Gonzaginha, both now deceased, are excellent examples) from Brazil's Northeast -- and dances to forró . The traditional instruments in a forró band are accordeon, hand-drum, and triangle, (sanfona, zabumba, and triângulo), but the music has become very commercialized and you'll hear synthed-up forró on the radio and at the big shows.  For an example of old-time forró played by the genre's giant, put on your straw hat and...

São João is a harvest festival, and in a sense it feels a lot more like Christmas than Brazil's "real" Christmas (or Natal). This is because it's a family-and-friends gathering, the tradition being to head into the interior, to the pequena cidade (small town) one or one's family hails from. If you don't have your own pequena cidade there are plenty of them in the interior promoting parties in June -- putting on shows and hosting quadrilhas (square dancing) for the general pubic. Amargosa is one of the best-known.

Traditional accompaniments to São João are foods made from corn (milho), licor de genipapo (sweet liquor made from the genipapo fruit), bonfires, and firecrackers (the latter tending to go off all during June, to the chagrin of many good citizens!).

Festa de São Pedro (Saint Peter)

This festa in honor of the patron saint of widows and fishermen, held on the 29th of June (more forró), winds up the June celebrations.

2 de Julho, Independência da Bahia (Bahian Independence Day)


The Caboclo

Anniversary of the date of Bahia's independence from Portugal, which came the year after Brazil's declaration in 1822. In the morning the Caboclos (there is a cabocla too) are pulled from Lapinha through Santo Antônio além do Carmo to the Praça Municipal. In the afternoon they are pulled up Avenida 7 de Setembro to Campo Grande, accompanied by brass bands and followed by government representatives.

Festa da Boa Morte, in Cachoeira, Bahia

The Festa da Boa Morte is based in and around the date of the Catholic feast of the Assumption (the rise of the Virgin Mary into Heaven), but what makes it resonate so is less the festa's motive and more who is doing the feasting.

That would be the Irmandade da Boa Morte (Sisterhood of the Good Death), a lay society founded by members of 19th century Bahian society's lowest social caste, elderly slave women, women who bonded together to help provide for each other in life and in death in a sisterhood which continues to this day.

Whoever said "Age before beauty" had obviously never been to Cachoeira in mid-August.


Dona Dalva de Cachoeira

First Day

7:00 p.m. - Mass in the sisterhood's chapel, in honor of departed sisters.
8:00 p.m. - A procession leaving the sisterhood's chapel and weaving through the streets of Cachoeira.
9:00 p.m. - The Ceia Branca (White Dinner, that is, foodstuffs without dendé, palm oil), for the sisters and invited guests. White clothing is worn.

Second Day

7:00 p.m. - Mass in the sisterhood's chapel.
8:00 p.m. - A procession through the streets of Cachoeira, accompanied by musicians from the city's filarmônicas.

Third Day

5:00 a.m. - A dawn calling with fireworks.
9:00 a.m. - An august meeting of the sisters in their headquarters with Bahia's Governor Jaques Wagner, Ministers, Secretaries, and others of their ilk.

Fourth Day

8:00 p.m. - Distribution of cozido (a boiled dinner of assorted vegetables and meats) and after, samba-de-roda.

Fifth Day

8:00 p.m. - Closing ceremonies, with caruru (a meal built around a dish made with okra) and after, samba-de-roda!

Festa de São Roque

Celebrated on the 16th of August in the São Lázaro area of the neighborhood of Federação.

7 de Setembro, Independência do Brasil (Brazilian Independence Day)

Features a military parade down Avenida Sete de Setembro (which happens to be named for this particular date).

São Cosme e São Damião

On the 27th of September, the festa of the two Arab saints, a day when everybody eats carurú, a kind of vegetable stew made from quiabo (okra).  When people say they are having a carurú however they mean that guests are served a traditional plate including this food (and vatapá, among other things ), something representative of people coming together in family and friendship. Cosme and Damião are syncretized with the twin child orixás called Ibejis.

Dia da Baiana (Day of the Baiana)

November 25th.  Participated in by dozens of Baianas traditionally dressed in white hooped lace dresses and colored beads representative of  various orixás, Dia da Baiana opens with a mass at church Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos (Church Our Lady of the Rosary of the Blacks) on the Largo do Pelourinho...and continues with a lunch of traditional Bahian food, samba de roda and other activities at the SENAC restaurant, also located on the largo.  This festa is not traditional, having been started by state tourism agency Bahiatursa in the '80s.

Dia do Samba

December 2nd. Dia do Samba was created by the Câmara Municipal (Salvador City Council) in the 1940s to honor composer Ary Barroso (who was born on this day), the first show in commemoration of the day taking place in 1972 with the participation of Gilberto Gil. Subsequent years have included and continue to include Bahia's greatest sambistas.

Luiz Gonzaga
Born December 13th, 1912 - Died August 2nd, 1989


Rei do Baião
 

Rei do Ritmo
Luiz Gonzaga and Jackson do Pandeiro, the two Reis -- Kings -- of the Brazilian Northeast

It's interesting that of the two great divisions of the music of Brazil's Northeast -- samba and forró (forró being something of an umbrella term including several different rhythms) -- samba is generally considered as having links to candomblé, while forró seems to be something else entirely...

But here's an epiphany from one of the masters (and hey! If it caught Jackson do Pandeiro by surprise, don't feel bad if it catches you by surprise too!).

"Um dia, em Pernambuco, fui ver um xangô e não é que quando cheguei e fui ouvindo o batuque, eu disse, cá comigo: 'Oxente! Isso é um coco!' E era. Mas um coco com agogô, com atabaques...um coco africano. O coco é mesmo que ser brasileiro: um tem um nariz chato, o outro é preto, outro é branco, mas todos são brasileiros. Assim é o coco."

"One day, in Pernambuco, I went to see a xangô (candomblé) and wouldn't you know it but when I got there and heard the drumming, I said to myself: 'Gee! That's a coco (one of the rhythms utilized in forró)!' And it was. But a coco with agogô (rhythm bell), with atabaques (conga-like drums)...an African coco. Coco is like being Brazilian, one has a wide nose, the other is black, the other white, but they're all Brazilians. That's what coco is like."


 
Salvador, the City

Salvador & Its Spirit
An Introduction to Salvador, Brazil

A Short History

A Short History of Salvador da Bahia
Some History of Salvador, Brazil

Musicians' Area

Salvador's Music Site
Non-musicians welcome too

Carnival in Salvador

Carnival in Salvador
Carnival in Salvador, Brazil

The World Cup

World Cup Salvador
The World Cup in Salvador, Brazil

The Old City: Pelourinho

Salvador's Old City
The Old Town in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador's Neighborhoods

Salvador's Neighborhoods
Neighborhoods in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador Sites & History

Salvador Sites
Some Sites in Salvador, Brazil

Brazilian Music

A History of Brazilian Music
Brazil's Brilliant Musical History

Apartment Rental: Alain

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain
Apartments in Salvador, Brazil

The Music of Bahia

Music of Bahia
About Music in Salvador, Brazil

Bangin' Brazilian Music!


Listen to Music from Salvador, Brazil!

About Us

About Us
Stranger in a Strange Land

The Sacred & the Profana

Festas
Festas in Salvador, Brazil

Apartment Rental: Daniel

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel
Apartments in Salvador, Brazil

Food & Eating Out in Salvador

Food in Salvador
Cuisine in Salvador, Brazil

Drinking in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador
Tippling in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador's Beach Scene

Salvador's Beaches
Beaches in and About Salvador, Brazil

Islands in the Bay

Islands in the Bay
Islands in Salvador's Baía de Todos os Santos

An English-Owned Hotel!

An English-Owned Hotel
British Organization in Salvador, Brazil

What's On in Salvador

What's On in Salvador
Happenings in Salvador, Brazil

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions
Questions About Salvador, Brazil

Download Music

Download Great Brazilian Music
Get Music!

Ubiquitous Deities: Candomblé

Candomblé
Candomblé in Salvador, Brazil

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse!

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse
Musically Informed and Inspired

Capoeira: Dance Like a Baryshnikov, Hit Like
a Kalashnikov

Capoeira
Capoeira in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador's Afoxés &
Blocos Afros

Salvador's Afoxe's & Blocos Afros
Salvador's African Carnival Music

Percussion Classes in Salvador: Heaviest Hands

Percussion Classes in Salvador
Great Percussion Teachers in Salvador

Brazilian Music
Workshops & Tours

Brazilian Music Workshops
Music Tours of Salvador & Environs

Fiction from Bahia

Fiction from Bahia
Fiction Conceived and Written Here

Group Lodging in Salvador Professional & Student

Group Lodging in Salvador
Lodging in Salvador, Brazil

Learning Portuguese:
Lessons & Classes

Learning Portuguese
Portuguese Classes in Salvador, Brazil

Money Matters

Money Matters
Where to Change Money, etc.

Buying Property in Salvador

Buying Property in Salvador
Property in Salvador, Brazil

Dental Help in Salvador

Dental Help in Salvador
Hopefully you won't need it, but...

S.O.S. Brazil: Volunteer Work

Volunteer Work
Helping in Salvador, Brazil

How to Avoid Problems

How to Avoid Being Robbed & Cheated
Prudence in Salvador, Bahia

Off Salvador's Beaten Track

Off Salvador's Beaten Track
Far from the Maddening Crowds

Buses, Taxis, & Cars

How to Get Around
Gettin' Around in Salvador, Brazil

Current Weather & the Forecast

Current Weather
The Weather in Salvador, Brazil

Black Market: Bahian Bazaar

Black Market
Out of the Common Purchases

Outside of Salvador

Outside of Salvador
Ranging Outside of Salvador, Brazil

Other Voices

Other Voices
On Brazil, Life & Culture

Kindred Spirits

Kindred Spirits
Related Tenuously But Truly

Salvador Tours

 A Tour Guide to Salvador
A Writer's Tours