Salvador the Best!

Salvador da Bahia, Brazil Central
The Deep Guide to Brazil's Essentiality

Sprawled across broad equatorial latitudes, stoked and steamed and sensual in the widest sense of the word... limned in cadenced song... its very name born in heat and embers, Brazil is a conundrum wrapped in a smile inside an irony.

 
CONTENTS

Gettin' Around

Transportation in Salvador

Well, you've basically got three ways to go: by taxi, by bus, or by rented car. Taxis are cheap enough by U.S. and European standards (if you don't get taken to where you're going via the long route) and buses, at two reais and thirty centavos, are a bit more than half the cost of a subway ride in New York City. I'll fill you in some more and I'll start with the buses --

First, you don't enter via the front door. You get on through the back door. (The executivos, the more expensive and easily distinguishable alternatives to city buses, are entered at the front. They don't have rear doors.)

In order to get from the airport into town you can go by any of the three means above: taxi, executivo, or city bus. Taxi, of course, is the most expensive. The fare is around seventy-five reais. The executivo is R$4.00, and the city bus (ônibus coletivo) is R$2.50. The advantage to the executivo is that it will accommodate as much luggage as you have.

The end-of-the-line for the executivo is Praça da Sé, at the entrance to Pelourinho, the old colonial city center. To be more exact, the bus stops a couple of blocks before reaching Praça da Sé (the end-of-the-line used to be Praça da Sé itself, but a public plaza was built there a couple of years ago). A lot of the route encompasses a beautiful ride along the orla, or seafront. Oh, and by the way, you don't pay the fare for the executivo when you board the bus. It will either be collected along the way by a fare-collector, or collected by the bus-driver when you get off.

And, Salvador also has a Mêtro! With shiny "new" cars! The shine though, unfortunately, is fading and rusting away as the cars languish in a warehouse for which the city pays 80,000 reais a month, having been purchased in 2008, while the rest of the Mêtro's infrastructure was far from complete (in spite of construction having been started eight years earlier, in 2000). The corruption in this city, state, and country is colossal and appalling! It doesn't matter who you vote for, the system is rigged! Of course it's almost more sickening that in the United States (I'm an American) corruption is completely institutionalized in the obscene form of campaign contributions (and I don't doubt that in terms of the amount of money buying influence, the U.S. is the most corrupt country on the planet; amazing blindness on the part of a lot of people!). It's a good thing that there's more to a country than its politicians and businessmen, or places like Brazil and the United States would be deserts, rather than the intricately fascinating places they are. I suppose that goes for the entire world.

Some Good & Honest Taxi Drivers

Marcus Vinícius: His telephone number is 9994-1074, and his email is marvinisanper@hotmail.com. Marcus is the brother of a friend of mine who used to be the "offical" Bahia-Online taxi driver/tour guide, until he (Márcio) and one of his Bahia-Online clients fell in love and got married. Márcio now lives in L.A.

Salvador lost a good and honest man, but to a better cause...


Salvador's Giant Steps

...Herbie Hancock and every gypsy jazz guitarist in a European caravan camp and every sitar player in Bengal and every sambista in every favela in Rio de Janeiro... they are all within an average of six introductions from you.

We've taken this principle, substituted links for introductions, and the results are like magic...

Salvador Muse  

...as if Euterpe (you know...the Greek muse of music?) has waved her double flute and the music world has been transformed into a truly open society wherein within some few hops anybody on the planet can potentially reach and hear anybody else, no matter who or where they are...

Mongolian shepherds and New York hipsters can click through to brilliant Bahian chuleiros and magnificent samba-de-roda that they NEVER would have found without a musical codex on the air! The possibilities are endless!

www.musicodex.com

 


TOURS of SALVADOR & ENVIRONS
by writer Ben Paris
The Good, the Bad, & the Beautiful
Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain

An American in Brazil
A-Class Service & Communication!
Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel

A San Francisco Native in Brazil
A-Class Service & Communication!
ALL Available Hotels
in Salvador!

All Hotels in Salvador

Much More Comfortable than
Sleeping on the Beach!
Home - Salvador Central

Home: Salvador Central

A Tour Guide to
Salvador & Environs

A Tour Guide to Salvador

Salvador, the City

Salvador & Its Spirit

A Short History of
Salvador da Bahia

A Short History of Salvador da Bahia

Carnival in Salvador

Carnival in Salvador

What Brazil Does Best...

Salvador's Music Site

The World Cup in Salvador

World Cup Salvador

Salvador's Old City: Pelourinho

Salvador's Old City

Salvador's Neighborhoods, Streets,
Praças & Byways

Salvador's Neighborhoods

Blood, Sweat, & Prayers: Salvador Sites
& History

Salvador Sites

Once Upon a Night in Brazil:
A Short History of
Brazilian Music

A History of Brazilian Music

Sweet Fields, Bitter Harvest:
The Music of Bahia

Music of Bahia

And the Whole Musical Planet!

Salvador's Music Site

About Us

About Us

The Sacred & the Profana: Festas

Festas

Food & Eating Out in Salvador

Food in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador

Salvador's Beach Scene

Salvador's Beaches

Islands in the Bay

Islands in the Bay

What's On in Salvador

What's On in Salvador

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Download GREAT
Brazilian Music

Download Great Brazilian Music

Ubiquitous Deities: Candomblé

Candomblé

Capoeira: Dance Like a Baryshnikov, Hit Like a Kalashnikov

Capoeira

Salvador's Afoxés & Blocos Afros

Salvador's Afoxe's & Blocos Afros

Percussion Classes in Salvador:
Heaviest Hands

Percussion Classes in Salvador

Brazilian Music
Workshops & Tours

Brazilian Music Workshops

Group Lodging in Salvador:
Professional & Student

Group Lodging in Salvador

Learning Portuguese:
Lessons & Classes

Learning Portuguese

Money Matters

Money Matters

Buying Property in Salvador

Buying Property in Salvador

S.O.S. Brazil: Volunteer Work

Volunteer Work

How to Avoid Being
Robbed & Cheated

How to Avoid Being Robbed & Cheated

Off Salvador's Beaten Track

Off Salvador's Beaten Track

How to Get Around:
Buses, Taxis, & Cars

How to Get Around

Black Market: Bahian Bazaar

Black Market

Outside of Salvador

Outside of Salvador

Other Voices

Other Voices

Kindred Spirits &
Fellow Travellers

Kindred Spirits

Fiction from Bahia

Fiction from Bahia

Dental Help in Salvador

Dental Help in Salvador

Current Weather & the Forecast

Current Weather

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse!

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse

An English-Owned Hotel!

An English-Owned Hotel

ALL Available Hotels
in Salvador!

All Hotels in Salvador