Salvador the Best!

Salvador da Bahia, Brazil Central
The Deep Guide to Brazil's Essentiality

Sprawled across broad equatorial latitudes, stoked and steamed and sensual in the widest sense of the word... limned in cadenced song...
its very name born in heat and embers, Brazil is a conundrum wrapped in a smile inside an irony.

Plus, You Can Be a Relay Torch Bearer for Music!
For Music from Salvador! For Music From Wherever YOU Are!

 
Human ChainLinks Carry Musical Knowledge Across the Globe

There is a musical conundrum in the world, a puzzle so blatant that most people are unaware that it even exists. While it seems that in superwired modernity we have clear and free access to the world's music, we don't. Case in point: There is brilliant music here in Salvador, Bahia that you will never know about unless you are here (and I'm not talking about Gilberto Gil and Caetano Veloso and other major-label war horses; nor schtickmaster Carlinhos Brown). Major labels can get the word around, but the paradigm has changed and is continuing to change.

So we built a "book" into which anybody can write and recommend, and anybody can follow these recommendations, should they see fit.

  Salvador - Small World

Click here to go straight to our MusiCodex (codex = book in Latin), or read on...

To: Musicians/Journalists/Dedicated Listeners

From: An American Music Producer in Brazil

Subject: In music, all too often it's you can't get there from here. This is absolutely unnecessary nowadays and we're working to change it (with a lot of help from our friends).

- We are all very well connected: You and me and Quincy Jones. And Nicholas Payton and Tommy Peoples. And Joshua Bell and Mick Jagger. Plus every living musician and producer out there. Via the phenomenon known as Small World/Six Degrees of Separation

- If we turn these intangible relations between musicians (and the people who listen to them) into tracks which can be followed, there will be a way, within a few short hops, for anybody to potentially reach any musician anywhere in the world (even if they've never heard of them).

- That's the theory. How do we put it into practice? Like this: Let people create followable connections to musicians (and others) in an online codex (codex is Latin for "book"). As in life, the connections themselves will be interconnected, meaning that people can move from musician to musician to musician (or any member) throughout the system.

- e.g. Herbie Hancock connects to a genius bass player known to him and his erudite friends. That guy connects to a singer in Cape Verde. She connects to a singer in Rio de Janeiro, who connects to a widely unknown band in New Orleans. They connect to a magnificent gypsy jazz guitarist who lives in a trailer in Belgium...

- Beyond world-wide-wired interlinkability, codex pages can also be linked out to everything else one might want findable: website, Facebook, Twitter, YouTube channel, Spotify, Soundcloud, music download sites, etc.

- The beautiful upshot of all this being that for the first time since man began making music over 30,000 years ago, musicians across-the-board are within reach of the world-at-large. By way of a musical democracy curated by the deepest, most subtle and powerful recommendation software ever devised: the collective human mind.

- I hope you'll be a part of it! (Non-musicians welcome too.)

- Thank you!

www.musicodex.com

Sparrow Roberts
www.musicodex.com/profile/sparrowroberts

- Who am I and why do I care about this?

- I'm an American who's lived for the past twenty-two years in Bahia, Brazil, where among other things I opened a record shop (Cana Brava Records) devoted to the primordial samba of the Bahian backlands and where I spend the time I can out in the small communities (fishing villages usually) where this music still exists.

- "Sparrow" is the English-language version of what Brazilians call me...Pardal. David Dye was here last year and I organized a show for his World Café:

http://www.xpn.org/world-cafe/guests/item/2917-samba-chula-de-sao-braz-and-randy-sparrow-roberts

- I work with masterful but far-from-the-mainstream musicians who inspired the creation of a system of human chainlinks to carry knowledge of them and their music -- and that of others -- out into the world beyond the horizon.

- Before moving to Brazil I lived in New York city and "rescued" unpaid royalties for Led Zeppelin, Mongo Santamaria, Aretha Franklin, Barbra Streisand, Philip Glass, the estate of Duke Ellington, Jim Hall, Ray Barretto, Airto Moreira, Astrud Gilberto, The Cadillacs (Earl Carroll), The Flamingos (Jake and Zeke Carey), among others.

CONTENTS
Candomblé: West African Deities
at Home on a Far Shore


Locations of houses of candomblé in Salvador!

Oxum
 
It's night in Salvador and you hear drumming. It may be coming from one of the numerous terreiros de candomblé scattered throughout the city. Most terreiros will permit visitors to attend their ceremonies. Should you go, dress respectfully. Trousers for men, and women should wear longer skirts. White is best because it is respectful to all the orixás.

("Orixá" is commonly translated as "god".  A more accurate representation would perhaps be "saint".  Candomblé posits a monotheistic supreme being -- usually referred to as Olodumaré or Olorum (in candomblé ketu) -- with the orixás being called upon as intermediaries between earthbound humans and the all-powerful, much as a Christian will pray for a saint's intercession on his or her behalf.

Orixá is by far the most common term in Bahia for these entities (the candomblé ketu term), although they are also referred to as Nkisi in candomblé angola and Voduns in candomblé jeje.)

If you speak Portuguese and would like to find information with respect to various houses of candomblé, where they are located, what nights they hold their ceremonies, and when they have their special festas, a good place to go is the FEDERAÇÃO BAIANA DE CULTO AFRO BRASILEIRO, located at Rua Portas do Carmo, 39 (1st floor) in Pelourinho.

 

 

City of Women: Mãe Stella (center)

It's said that Salvador has a (Catholic) church for every day of the year, they're all over the place. But this number -- or whatever the true number is -- pales in comparison to the number of terreiros de candomblé in Salvador. An amazing project, the Mapeamento dos Terreiros de Salvador truly and literally puts this into perspective, detailing 1,155 terreiros (and this doesn't include Itaparica!), with maps, satellite and other photos, leaders' names, addresses and contact and other information.

The practice of candomblé was at one time prohibited in Brazil (unofficially for centuries, and then officially by law between 1937 and 1945, during the Estado Novo of dictator Getúlio Vargas, who at the same time ironically, as part of his plan for the manipulation of the popular consciousness as a means for the further consolidation of his power, promoted Brazilian music and music which promoted Brazil, e.g. Ary Barroso's Aquarela do Brasil), and thereafter in Bahia a licence was required, the same that was required by nightclubs and gambling establishments. After a personal appeal by Mãe Stella of Ilê Axé Opô Afonjá to the governor of Bahia (Roberto Santos, in office from 1975 to 1979), this requirement was lifted, and new terreiros sprouted -- for the most part among the more humble neighborhoods -- like singing flowers weaving to the lovely melodies and gloriously complicated rhythms calling down to Salvador Iansã and Yemanjá, Dandalunda, Oxossi and Xangô...


Xangô in Cachoeira

CASA DE OXUMARÉ
Address: Rua Pedro Gama, (no number) - 2nd Travessa - Federação
Tel: 3237.2859
*Pai Silvonilton

The address for this terreiro is in Federação, but unless you know the winding backstreets of the neighborhood you'll never get there. The terreiro is very easy to get to from Avenida Vasco da Gama, however (there is an entrance at Vasco da Gama, 343), and thus the locale is located conveniently close to the city center. Arriving from the Vasco end, however, means climbing steps, lots of steps -- one hundred and four of them to be exact.

The full name of the house is Ilê Axé Oxumaré. It was founded around 1900 and is descended from the Ketu Nation. Ceremonies begin at 8:00 p.m. (or so) on Wednesday nights, and last two to three hours. Visitors are welcome.

CASA BRANCA
Address: Av. Vasco da Gama, 463 - Vasco da Gama
Tel: 3334.2900
*Mãe Altamira Cecília dos Santos

Casa Branca (White House), or Ilê Axé Yá Nassô, is usually cited as Salvador's first house of candomblé, but it might be better said to be Salvador's oldest continually functioning house of candomblé because candomblé was practiced in the senzalas and on the terreiros of the sugarcane plantations both before (and after) the house was established. The "house" (in an organizational sense) was first located on the Ladeira do Berquo -- now known as Rua Visconde de Itaparica -- behind the Igreja (Church) da Barroquinha (the church is easily visible from Praça Castro Alves; it burned in 1983 but the structure still stands).

Ceremonies are on Sunday nights, beginning at 8 p.m.

 

Mãe Menininha

GANTOIS (Ilê Axé Yá Massê)
Address: Alto do Gantois, 23 - Federação
Tel: 3336.9594
*Mãe Carmem

Gantois was the house of famous Mãe Menininha (mother of Mãe Carmem, who now presides over the terreiro...a lovely song in Mãe Menininha's honor was composed by Dorival Caymmi; Dona Ivone Lara -- first lady of samba -- sings the version below)

 

 

Candomblé Angola on the Beach!

February 2nd, 2012. A group from Irará, Bahia at the Festa de Yemanjá. A woman to the left has been possessed.

 

Possession

In Salvador's neighborhood of Castelo Branco.

 


Salvador da Bahia: Arts & Essences
Music of Candomblé

 

Mateus at a terreiro de candomblé in São Francisco do Conde

Without the resources to build cathedrals, their temples of worship simple houses within the means of runaway or freed slaves, African-Brazilians reached inward for what they could project out, and the result of their soul-searching was soul-stirring music and dance. These are the Tincoãs of Cachoeira, Bahia (a tincoã is a bird native to the region), in extremely rare footage. Mateus, their primary composer (building on melodies and rhythms of candomblé) is the only surviving member of the group. The lower quadrant features another song of Mateus' taken straight from candomblé (and elaborated upon). The first singer there is Thalma de Freitas, accompanied on piano by her father, Maestro Laércio de Freitas. Second voice is Mateus' daughter Fabiana, and Mateus himself plays guitar.

The deities which are the subjects of the song are both mother figures, the first being Yemanjá, and the second Nanã. Saravá!

As for Mateus himself, he was brought up in the terreiro Roça do Ventura, a Jêje candomblé in Cachoeira. The Jêje house in Salvador is Bogum, in the neighborhood of Engenho Velho de Federação...a principal runtó (ordained drummer) is Luizinho do Jêje.

 


In-Lê-In-Lá!
Ederaldo Gentil's Beautiful Carnival Homage to the 50th Anniversary of Mãe Menininha's Ascension to the Leadership of the Gantois House of Candomblé!


Mãe Menininha (front center right), 1940-41

The world lost and Heaven (Orum) gained Ederaldo Gentil on March 30th, 2012. This samba enredo (Carnival marching samba) was written by Ederaldo for the Filhos de Tororó in 1972.

Salvador Apartment Rentals!


Thinking about an apartment? What Alain has to say may be interesting!

Alain's Apartments in Salvador: Click HERE for information and listings!!!

HELP!!!!!
Get Brazil's Most Historically Important & Moving Music!
And Help Finance Alumínio Saturno's Fight Against Prostate Cancer!
A Hand to Someone Deserving Never Sounded So Great!

Here's the story: Alumínio Saturno is one of Brazil's most important musicians. And one of its poorest. He, together with his brother João do Boi, leads Samba Chula de São Braz, an absolutely magnificent ensemble working in Brazil's deepest musical genre, analogous in Brazil to the delta blues in the United States. João is first voice, and Alumínio is first pandeiro (tambourine).


Alumínio in better days

Alumínio has been devastated by prostate cancer. No more samba for him. He sits at home, wasted away, wearing his urine collection bag and awaiting surgery in a public hospital in Salvador. Alumínio's main source of income has been subsistence farming, which he is now unable to maintain. His brother, the iconic João do Boi, is a street cleaner in their home town (which began life as a quilombo, a village of runaway slaves.


This is brother João do Boi, right (in his streetcleaning uniform), with percussionist Badega

A local producer got these guys (Samba Chula de São Braz) to Womex several years ago (Womex is a music industry extension of Peter Gabriel's World of Music and Dance), and they played several countries in Europe, and Israel, to deserved acclaim. That's all over for now.

So, I'm making their CD available for download online, nine U.S. bucks. Every centavo that comes in (after the Bandcamp service takes out their commission) is going straight to Alumínio, taken to his house personally by me. I'll put up a list of contributor/downloaders, and if you'd like for me to include any information about yourself, I'll gladly do so.

 

Alumínio can be seen dancing in the clip above, made outside his brother's house. Alumíno gets up to samba after João and then João's daughter, Alumínio's niece. Will Alumínio ever samba again? I don't know, but you can help to maybe make it possible.

Go HERE to buy/contribute - listen/check it out (you can check the music out for free)!

The entire CD is 9 U.D. dollars (you can pay in any currency) If you'd like to donate more, that's up to you!

I can be contacted at sparrowroberts@gmail.com --

TOURS of SALVADOR & ENVIRONS
by writer Ben Paris
The Good, the Bad, & the Beautiful
Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain

An American in Brazil
A-Class Service & Communication!
Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel

A San Francisco Native in Brazil
A-Class Service & Communication!
ALL Available Hotels
in Salvador!

All Hotels in Salvador

Much More Comfortable than
Sleeping on the Beach!
Home - Salvador Central

Home: Salvador Central

A Tour Guide to
Salvador & Environs

A Tour Guide to Salvador

Salvador, the City

Salvador & Its Spirit

A Short History of
Salvador da Bahia

A Short History of Salvador da Bahia

Carnival in Salvador

Carnival in Salvador

What Brazil Does Best...

Salvador's Music Site

The World Cup in Salvador

World Cup Salvador

Salvador's Old City: Pelourinho

Salvador's Old City

Salvador's Neighborhoods, Streets,
Praças & Byways

Salvador's Neighborhoods

Blood, Sweat, & Prayers: Salvador Sites
& History

Salvador Sites

Once Upon a Night in Brazil:
A Short History of
Brazilian Music

A History of Brazilian Music

Sweet Fields, Bitter Harvest:
The Music of Bahia

Music of Bahia

And the Whole Musical Planet!

Salvador's Music Site

About Us

About Us

The Sacred & the Profana: Festas

Festas

Food & Eating Out in Salvador

Food in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador

Salvador's Beach Scene

Salvador's Beaches

Islands in the Bay

Islands in the Bay

What's On in Salvador

What's On in Salvador

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Download GREAT
Brazilian Music

Download Great Brazilian Music

Ubiquitous Deities: Candomblé

Candomblé

Capoeira: Dance Like a Baryshnikov, Hit Like a Kalashnikov

Capoeira

Salvador's Afoxés & Blocos Afros

Salvador's Afoxe's & Blocos Afros

Percussion Classes in Salvador:
Heaviest Hands

Percussion Classes in Salvador

Brazilian Music
Workshops & Tours

Brazilian Music Workshops

Group Lodging in Salvador:
Professional & Student

Group Lodging in Salvador

Learning Portuguese:
Lessons & Classes

Learning Portuguese

Money Matters

Money Matters

Buying Property in Salvador

Buying Property in Salvador

S.O.S. Brazil: Volunteer Work

Volunteer Work

How to Avoid Being
Robbed & Cheated

How to Avoid Being Robbed & Cheated

Off Salvador's Beaten Track

Off Salvador's Beaten Track

How to Get Around:
Buses, Taxis, & Cars

How to Get Around

Black Market: Bahian Bazaar

Black Market

Outside of Salvador

Outside of Salvador

Other Voices

Other Voices

Kindred Spirits &
Fellow Travellers

Kindred Spirits

Fiction from Bahia

Fiction from Bahia

Dental Help in Salvador

Dental Help in Salvador

Current Weather & the Forecast

Current Weather

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel!

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse!

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse

An English-Owned Hotel!

An English-Owned Hotel

ALL Available Hotels
in Salvador!

All Hotels in Salvador


 
Salvador, the City

Salvador & Its Spirit
An Introduction to Salvador, Brazil

A Short History

A Short History of Salvador da Bahia
Some History of Salvador, Brazil

Musicians' Area

Salvador's Music Site
Non-musicians welcome too

Carnival in Salvador

Carnival in Salvador
Carnival in Salvador, Brazil

The World Cup

World Cup Salvador
The World Cup in Salvador, Brazil

The Old City: Pelourinho

Salvador's Old City
The Old Town in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador's Neighborhoods

Salvador's Neighborhoods
Neighborhoods in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador Sites & History

Salvador Sites
Some Sites in Salvador, Brazil

Brazilian Music

A History of Brazilian Music
Brazil's Brilliant Musical History

Apartment Rental: Alain

Apartment Rental Salvador: Alain
Apartments in Salvador, Brazil

The Music of Bahia

Music of Bahia
About Music in Salvador, Brazil

Bangin' Brazilian Music!


Listen to Music from Salvador, Brazil!

About Us

About Us
Stranger in a Strange Land

The Sacred & the Profana

Festas
Festas in Salvador, Brazil

Apartment Rental: Daniel

Apartment Rental Salvador: Daniel
Apartments in Salvador, Brazil

Food & Eating Out in Salvador

Food in Salvador
Cuisine in Salvador, Brazil

Drinking in Salvador

Drinking in Salvador
Tippling in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador's Beach Scene

Salvador's Beaches
Beaches in and About Salvador, Brazil

Islands in the Bay

Islands in the Bay
Islands in Salvador's Baía de Todos os Santos

An English-Owned Hotel!

An English-Owned Hotel
British Organization in Salvador, Brazil

What's On in Salvador

What's On in Salvador
Happenings in Salvador, Brazil

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions
Questions About Salvador, Brazil

Download Music

Download Great Brazilian Music
Get Music!

Ubiquitous Deities: Candomblé

Candomblé
Candomblé in Salvador, Brazil

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse!

A Seaside Musical Guesthouse
Musically Informed and Inspired

Capoeira: Dance Like a Baryshnikov, Hit Like
a Kalashnikov

Capoeira
Capoeira in Salvador, Brazil

Salvador's Afoxés &
Blocos Afros

Salvador's Afoxe's & Blocos Afros
Salvador's African Carnival Music

Percussion Classes in Salvador: Heaviest Hands

Percussion Classes in Salvador
Great Percussion Teachers in Salvador

Brazilian Music
Workshops & Tours

Brazilian Music Workshops
Music Tours of Salvador & Environs

Fiction from Bahia

Fiction from Bahia
Fiction Conceived and Written Here

Group Lodging in Salvador Professional & Student

Group Lodging in Salvador
Lodging in Salvador, Brazil

Learning Portuguese:
Lessons & Classes

Learning Portuguese
Portuguese Classes in Salvador, Brazil

Money Matters

Money Matters
Where to Change Money, etc.

Buying Property in Salvador

Buying Property in Salvador
Property in Salvador, Brazil

Dental Help in Salvador

Dental Help in Salvador
Hopefully you won't need it, but...

S.O.S. Brazil: Volunteer Work

Volunteer Work
Helping in Salvador, Brazil

How to Avoid Problems

How to Avoid Being Robbed & Cheated
Prudence in Salvador, Bahia

Off Salvador's Beaten Track

Off Salvador's Beaten Track
Far from the Maddening Crowds

Buses, Taxis, & Cars

How to Get Around
Gettin' Around in Salvador, Brazil

Current Weather & the Forecast

Current Weather
The Weather in Salvador, Brazil

Black Market: Bahian Bazaar

Black Market
Out of the Common Purchases

Outside of Salvador

Outside of Salvador
Ranging Outside of Salvador, Brazil

Other Voices

Other Voices
On Brazil, Life & Culture

Kindred Spirits

Kindred Spirits
Related Tenuously But Truly

Salvador Tours

 A Tour Guide to Salvador
A Writer's Tours